Friday, February 20, 2009

New York Fashion Week: Day 7

Not to Mess With: Phi

I am so excited that Andreas Malbostead has been receiving an increased amount of attention since he started designing for Phi a few seasons ago. And for this collection, he continues to impress us with solid, streamlined pieces: tough biker jackets, seductive zipper leather leggings, second-skin scuba dresses. It's all about how to be sexy without losing that edge.

The Incredible Shapes: Calvin Klein

After spring's robotic geometric shapes, Francisco Costa took a more organic approach this season. Natural shapes are back, as well as details such as curved seams, asymmetrical collar, and three-dimensional chiffon plisse, all carefully crafted to perfection. The color palette remains simple; shades of black and white with only two dresses in golden yellow throughout the entire collection. Yet the pieces are anything but simple.

The Art Student: Catherine Malandrino

Catherine Malandrino's collection was very much Surrealist inspired, especially paying homage to Elsa Schiaparelli, the pioneer of surreal fashion. There's nothing that we haven't seen before: the cut-out hand applique (think Comme des Garcons 2 years ago), the familiar day-to-night dresses, the signature intricate lace and knits. Still, it was a cohesive collection full of lovely, feminine pieces that will please all Malandrino fans.


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